A Taste of the Mediterranean: Nicosia Turkish Restaurant, Malvern’s Hidden Gem

In the bustling heart of Malvern, where Glenferrie Road hums with the rhythm of Melbourne’s inner east, lies a culinary sanctuary that transports diners straight to the sun-drenched shores of Cyprus. Nicosia Turkish Restaurant, a family-run haven since 1992, embodies the island’s storied hospitality and vibrant flavours. Tucked away at 250 Glenferrie Road, this unassuming eatery has quietly become a beloved fixture for locals seeking authentic Turkish and Cypriot fare with a modern twist. As the aroma of grilled meats and fresh herbs wafts through the air, it’s clear: Nicosia isn’t just a restaurant—it’s a slice of Mediterranean paradise, right in the suburbs of Victoria.

Roots in the Eastern Mediterranean

The tale of Nicosia begins not in Malvern, but in the warm, sparkling seas of the Mediterranean, on the tiny island of Cyprus. Named after the island’s divided capital—a city of cobbled streets, historic walls, and resilient spirit—the restaurant draws its essence from this picturesque locale. For over two millennia, Cyprus has been a crossroads of cultures, coveted by empires from the Ottomans to the British, each leaving an indelible mark on its cuisine. It’s this rich tapestry that the Azu family, of Cypriot heritage, sought to weave into Melbourne’s fabric when they opened Nicosia in 1992.

Family-owned and operated from the outset, Nicosia has been nurtured through generations. Mr. Azu, the patriarch often spotted in his signature black apron, brings a quiet intensity to the kitchen, while his daughter Sue—once a beaming 32-year-old sharing tales of their heritage—has helped steer the venue towards its welcoming ethos. Though the family keeps a low profile today, their passion shines through in every detail. “The story of Nicosia is the story of our family,” Sue once reflected, evoking the island’s tradition of lavish feasts and unhurried gatherings. Over three decades later, in the crisp autumn of 2025, the restaurant stands as a testament to enduring legacy, blending nostalgia with contemporary flair.

What sets Nicosia apart is its refusal to chase trends. In an era of fleeting pop-ups and fusion experiments, it remains steadfastly rooted in tradition—yet elevated. The menu celebrates “modern Turkish cuisine,” as proclaimed on their sleek website, where classic recipes meet refined presentation. It’s a philosophy born of Cyprus’s dual influences: the robust spices of Turkish meyhane houses and the fresh, seafood-infused bounty of the Aegean. For Melburnians weary of the city’s relentless pace, Nicosia offers respite—a reminder that good food is about connection, not complication.

A Cozy Ambiance That Welcomes All

Step inside, and the world slows. The space is intimate, with just enough room for a handful of tables seating up to four each, fostering an air of exclusivity without pretension. Exposed brick walls and soft lighting create a peaceful nook, ideal for a lazy lunch or intimate dinner. Diners often describe it as “lovely” and “relaxed,” a far cry from the cavernous dining halls elsewhere on Glenferrie Road. On a recent visit, the gentle hum of conversation mingled with the sizzle from the open kitchen, while sunlight filtered through street-facing windows, casting a golden glow over linen-clad tables.

This homely vibe is no accident. The Azus prioritise “unmatched hospitality,” a Cypriot hallmark that extends to every guest. Staff glide with effortless warmth, offering gluten-free adaptations without fanfare—a boon for the health-conscious crowd—and generous portions that encourage lingering. It’s small enough to feel personal, yet buzzing during peak hours, especially lunchtimes when office workers from nearby Prahran spill in for a quick fix of flavour. As one patron noted on Foursquare, it’s the kind of place where “delicious Turkish food” feels like a shared secret.

The Menu: Flavours That Linger

Nicosia’s menu is a love letter to the Eastern Mediterranean, structured around sharing plates that echo Cyprus’s communal dining traditions. It opens with meze—a constellation of small dishes designed for grazing. Start with the dips trio (£12), where silky hummus (tahini-kissed chickpeas with lemon and herbs), vibrant tarama (caviar whipped with onions and olive oil), and nutty tahini (sesame seeds blended with yoghurt) arrive with warm, pillowy Turkish bread. Add tabouli salad for a burst of parsley and mint, or vine leaves dolma stuffed with rice and pine nuts—each bite a fresh, zesty revelation.

The heart of the menu lies in the mains, where grilled perfection reigns. The doner kebab (£22) is a standout: tender lamb shaved thin and layered with chicken, served atop rice with Turkish salad and a dip. Reviewers rave about its “juicy, tender, and beautiful flavours,” often calling it the best they’ve encountered in Melbourne. For variety, try the Nicosia kofte (£20)—succulent minced lamb skewers spiced with cumin and sumac—or the mixed sis (£25), a medley of steak, lamb, beef, and chicken fillets grilled to smoky char. Vegetarians aren’t sidelined; the falafel plate (£18) earns top marks, described as “truly the best anywhere” for its crisp exterior and fluffy chickpea core. Seafood lovers might opt for grilled squid (£24), its tentacles charred just right and drizzled with lemon-olive oil, evoking Cyprus’s coastal bounty.

Desserts provide a sweet coda. Kunefe (£12), shredded pastry soaked in syrup and filled with cheese, is a house favourite—”awesome, the best we’ve had,” gushed one Wanderlog reviewer. Pair it with Turkish coffee or a glass of raki for authenticity. Portions are notoriously generous, so come hungry; as Weekend Notes advises, “bring an empty stomach.”

The wine list, though modest, nods to the region’s robust reds and crisp whites, with Cypriot commandaria for the adventurous. Prices remain “adequate,” with most mains under £25, making it accessible for everyday indulgence.

Voices from the Table: What Diners Say

Nicosia’s allure is amplified by its devotees. On Google, it holds a solid 4.4 out of 5 from hundreds of reviews, praised for “authentic dining experiences” and “delicious, flavorful dishes.” TripAdvisor echoes this with 4.2 from 83 ratings, highlighting the “great value Turkish food selection” and efficient service, though delivery packaging draws occasional gripes. Facebook users, numbering over 400 strong, give it a glowing 96% recommendation rate, with comments like “incredible food! The doner meat was absolutely delicious” from Uber Eats fans.

Criticisms are few—some lament the compact space for larger groups, and a 2010 blog pegged it at a modest 7/10 for ambiance—but these are outliers in a sea of acclaim. As one Yelp reviewer put it, Nicosia “makes it very easy to get a really good kebab this side of town,” blending sit-down sophistication with takeaway ease. In a city spoilt for ethnic eats, it stands out for its consistency: fresh ingredients, middle-eastern spices that “tantalise the taste buds,” and that rarest of gems—unsurpassed efficiency without rush.

A Timeless Invitation

As Malvern evolves—cafes multiplying, high-rises rising—Nicosia remains an anchor, a place where time bends towards tradition. Whether you’re a first-timer eyeing the meze or a regular craving kunefe, it delivers more than a meal: it delivers warmth, memory, and a whisper of the sea. In 2025, with its doors open Tuesday to Saturday and delivery zipping across the suburbs, it’s easier than ever to partake.

For reservations or to explore the full menu, visit Nicosia Turkish Restaurant at 250 Glenferrie Road, Malvern, Victoria 3144, Australia. Telephone: (03) 9509 9823. Website: nicosia.com.au. Hours: Tuesday–Thursday 11:30am–11:30pm; Friday–Saturday 11:30am–midnight; Sunday–Monday closed. Delivery available via Uber Eats, DoorDash, and Menulog for orders over £35 (free in Malvern and surrounds).

In the words of its founders, Nicosia is where hospitality meets heritage. Pull up a chair—you’re family now.